By TLex Vulcain have released a brand new sub-type diver. The aptly named 'Subnautical' Ref. 560162.338M has a 42mm x 12.40mm 316L Stainless steel case with a solid screwdown caseback and crown, a 60-click unidirectional rotational divers bezel with a blue ceramic insert with frosted silver-toned markers, and a domed Sapphire crystal. It has a water-resistance of 300 meters.
The dial is in midnight blue with nickel-coated hour-markers enhanced with white Superluminova. It is powered by a Vulcain Caliber V-56 self-winding automatic movement with 25 jewels, 93 parts and a power-reserve of 42hrs. It comes on either a polished and satin-brushed steel bracelet or an alligator strap. Very nice indeed!
By TLex Introducing the new 'BlackReef Ti Ultimate' from TechnoMarine. An iconoclastic design that combines what would be a decent-looking 500 meter, professional divers watch that boasts a modern, Grade2 Titanium constructed case complete with an HEV and presented on a Milanese mesh, no less -
with an absurdly designed unidirectional rotational (divers) bezel set with 12 diamonds, 18 baguette-cut sapphires, and 24 baguette-cut yellow sapphires that seems to mocks us mere dive watch loving mortals. Perhaps we have been taking our divers a little too seriously?! But have TM actually pulled of great looking diver despite deliberately going against the grain with the gemstone set bezel? Well, I did say 'decent-looking', but only in reference to the case, which by all accounts is very nicely crafted with some really cool-details to boot. I love those lateral case dampers and the hooded lugs.
However I'm not convinced by the dial. The wave pattern design looks more like zebra / zebra fish print and the hour markers could have been designed by Phillips, if those aren't light-bulbs, what are they? Perhaps I'm still a little jaded from my first hand experiences with TM, when I INTERVIEWed the then newly appointed CEO, who alluded to a noteworthy divers model that 3.5 years on has yet to transpire! ;)
MOVEMENT Mechanical automatic, ETA 2836 calibre, 38-hour power reserve
FUNCTIONS Hours, minutes, seconds, day and date
CASE Grade 2 titanium, 45 mm Automatic helium valve at 10 o’clock Unidirectional rotating bezel set with 12 diamonds, 18 baguette-cut sapphires, and 24 baguette-cut yellow sapphires Screw-lock crown with two gaskets Bevelled sapphire crystal with double anti-reflective treatment Water-resistant to 500 m (50 ATM/1650 ft)
DIAL Black stamped with wave motif Brushed luminescent hands Yellow and white luminescent indexes Date and day windows at 3 o’clock
BRACELET /strap Milanese mesh inspired by anti-shark diving suits, with folding clasp
By TLex This is the new Sailor from a newly owned and re-imagined, 'Swiss' Anonimo. The former Italian watch brand, who had only last year celebrated their 15th anniversary had unfortunately had a bit of bumpy ride over the last few years. I was lucky enough to have worked with them and for a short period of time, am proud to say that they were a sponsor of OceanicTime.
I'm not going to delve too deeply into their history, but briefly - they came to be when the (then) Vendôme group (Cartier) took over Panerai in 1997 leaving behind a number of veteran dive watch engineers. This team, which included Dino Zei, under the Anonimo name continued to passionately produce what were considered to be among the most authentic of Italian naval and divers watches.
Handcrafted in the traditions of Florentine watchmaking their lines of watches, which included the Professionale family, which gave us the Marlin BRONZE, and the SAN MARCO born of the historic Dino Zei label, earnt the love and respect of enthusiasts and aficionados and those that simply recognized and appreciated a great Italian made diver when they saw one. So what of the new brand and the new watches? I am left feeling rather apathetic, I'm afraid. I can't really be bothered talk about them. But I do find them a little soulless and without charm. And they clearly lack the rich Italian naval and diving heritage of the previous watches. But by all means pleased do discover THEM for yourself if you wish . . .
By TLex Oris have launched a groundbreaking if not somewhat unusual looking new divers watch that features both a lunar cycle and tidal range indication on its dial. The new Oris ProDiver Pointer Moon is the world's first mechanical wristwatch to do this. I could not have conceived of such a dive watch, but then again, I'm not a commercial diver!
Oris brand ambassador, Roman Frischknecht, a seasoned commercial diver usually has to consult external manuals for data on the lunar cycle and tidal ranges. He highlighted a need for this kind of information to be more easily accessible to him whilst at work and so the ProDiver Pointer Moon came to be!
The innovative new diver is available in both, Northern and Southern hemisphere tide range indications. Measuring a very manly 49mm in diameter, its massive multi-piece, Titanium case incorporates an automatic Helium escape valve and is fitted with Oris's patented 'Rotation Safety System', which allows the wearer to keep track of dive-time using a rotational bezel that can be locked to prevent any accidental adjustment.
It has a water-resistance of 100 bar/1,000 meters. Further features of the case include; a protected screwdown crown and caseback engraved with a meters-feet conversion scale, a double domed Sapphire crystal domed with anti-reflective coating on its inside and a unidirectional rotational divers with a black ceramic inlay. Under the hood is an automatic mechanical movement, the Oris Cal. 761, based on Sellita SW220 with pointer moon function and date display at 5 o'clock.
The dial is with applied indices and hands, both with Super-LumiNova® inlay. The watch comes on a rubber divers strap with a folding buckle and quick-adjustment extension, but is also supplied with a Titanium bracelet along with the necessary tools for strap changes, aptly packaged in a waterproof case. Its Swiss RRP is 3'200CHF.
Like Oris? Check out two other new Oris divers models: the Aquis REGULATEUR and Aquis DEPTH GAUGE . . .
By TLex JEANRICHARD have released an all new Aquasope collection for 2013. The re-designed Aquascope features a 46mm x 13mm robust cushion-style case, with a reinforced Sapphire crystal and screw-down caseback and crown, ensuring a water resistance of 300 meters. Its unidirectional rotational divers bezel has been designed for excellent grip and precise setting of dive-time thanks to its beautifully knurled edge and minute scale.
The hour and minute hands have been shaped very distinctly; as with the large applique indexes, they are backed by a luminescent coating offering optimal visibility for divers. The red-tipped second hand allows the wearer to quickly check if the watch is working a requirement for some regulations for divers watches.
The new collection boasts several color and finishing variants, an aluminum bezel with a dark blue PVD coating or black DLC. I am surprised that ceramic wasn't used, but matte looks more toolish, which plays off nicely against the refined case finishing. The watch is also available in gray, blue or black satin finishing, or in white for ladies and dandies. ;)
The new case design of the Aquascope distinguishes itself with some very clever finishing touches such as satin-brushed on the flat surfaces of the mid-case and lugs contrasted by polishing on the beveled edges. These attractive details are further enhanced by the contrast between the circular satin polish of the bezel and the vertical satin brushing on the dial.
The new Aquascope is driven by a high-powered automatic wound mechanical movement, the JR60. It is presented on an all new brushed Stainless steel bracelet with a butterfly clasp. It also comes with a finely streaked rubber divers strap signed JR, and a folding clasp made to match the dial.
There's nothing revolutionary here to be honest. I definitely prefer the more traditional single crown at 3 o'clock as apposed to the dual crowns of the PREVIOUS models. The Aquascope was always meant to be somewhat classic in its design - if you want something edgier then there's the new Sea HAWK from sibling Girard-Perregaux. For me the watch looks more refined and more utilitarian and is a little more clearly defined as diver.
By TLex The edgy gets a little edgier! Girard-Perregaux has released a new version of the latest Sea HAWK divers watch with a high-tech black ceramic case. It’s a far cry from the first generation of Sea Hawk models from the 1940s, but makes sense considering the current trend for ceramic watches that we have seen released since SIHH at the end of 2012.
The sleek looking ceramic used for the new Sea Hawk is unchanging, hypoallergenic and heat-reflecting. It is characterized by an extremely fine zirconium oxide powder contained within it. Don’t worry though; its inert character renders it harmless for people and for the environment.
An ‘‘infinitesimal dimension’’ makes ceramic possible to achieve a hardness of 1400 HV on the Vickers scale. In comparison Stainless steel has a hardness of 180 HV. It is also extremely scratch-resistant. The watch has a real stealth-bomber like personality to it; black and highly angular. The dial offers perfect readability, playing with the reliefs, luminescent touches and layout of the display against a decor inspired by the shape of the Girard-Perregaux Bridge.
Diving features of the watch include: a unidirectional rotational divers bezel for calculating elapsed dive time, a series of tests to demonstrate its ability to stand up to pressure at a depth of 300 meters, where the watch was subjected to a pressure in excess of 1,500 kg, have guaranteed its water-resistance in accordance with the very strict ISO 6425 standard.
The special case construction makes it highly shock-resistant, as does its crown, which is placed at 4 o’clock for greater comfort, reinforced by a crown guard that is perfectly integrated with the case.
Its dial is multi-layered. The hour markers and the hands are enhanced with luminescent material. Certain elements are high-lighted in red, such as the hands of the power reserve indicator and the sub-second. The date appears 1:30. Its a little quirky but allows a perfectly balanced display.
Finally a Girard-Perregaux Manufacture, GP03300-0074, self-winding mechanical movement with 27 jewels and a power reserve of a minimum of 46 hours, powers this very special watch. Its functions include: hour, minute, date, small second and a power reserve indicator.
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