Monday, December 16, 2013

STEINHART Ocean One VINTAGE

By TLex Paying tribute to the pioneering days of diving, when dive watches offered little other additional functions other than displaying the time of day and your dive-time.



The new Ocean One Vintage from Steinhart boasts a number of retro styling features that give it plenty of charm and charisma.



Its a new 42mm x 16mm Stainless steel case has 300m of water-resistance. It has a finely brushed finish with polished beveled sides as well as a large old school style crown the juts out from its side.



Then there're its golden hands and its dark grey dial that've been applied with 'old radium' vintage lume.



Its highly domed Sapphire crystal with its double anti-reflection treatment on its inside beautifully recalls the acrylic crystals of the 50s.



Its unidirectional rotational divers bezel with a its large 50s style red triangular 12 hour marker the finishing retro touch.



But its not all old school, the new Ocean One Vintage from Steinhart is the first model in their collection to feature their new Swiss Made automatic ST.5. caliber.



The 25 jewel ST.5 boasts a decorated, skeletonized gold-plated rotor and anthracite galvanized bridges in a cube-design. Features include; shock protection with a geometrically shaped, rotating spring.



The watch is available for pre-order HERE priced 387euro (ex-VAT) with shipping not before the end of January 2014. A fantastic looking watch with a modest price tag - I want one!

Friday, December 13, 2013

CARTIER Calibre de Cartier DIVER

By TLex Here's a preview of the new Calibre de Cartier Diver from Cartier, due for its official release at SIHH 2014. Although the watch has Cartier's unmistakable character it takes itself pretty seriously as a diver, and so complies with ISO 6425 for a divers watch.



Divers features include: a DLC coated 120-click type unidirectional rotational divers bezel with a luminous dive-time scale, a faceted screwdown crown set with Cartier's signature blue spinel and a water-resistant to 300 meters or 1000 feet.



The main watch case, which is in Stainless steel measures 42mm in diameter with a thickness of just 11mm, not bad considering its water-resistance. The case is fitted with a separate crown guard attached as the lugs are with flat head screws.



The dial has been designed for excellent legibility in the dark and as such has been generously applied with Swiss SuperLuminova on its sword hands and Roman numeral hour markers. There's a large date aperture at 3 o'clock and a sub-dial at 6.



The watch is powered by a Cartier in-house automatic 1904-PS MC caliber with 27 jewels and a power reserve of 48 hours.

It comes on either a black rubber divers strap or with a steel bracelet. A rose gold version is also available. Prices start from 5500euro for the steel version with a rubber strap.



It's pleasing to see any Manufacture producing a high-end diver with an in-house caliber. This one ticks all the boxes for divers features, but Cartier don't have any diving heritage so the watch stirs very little emotion in me. My 5500euro could do way better for me than this. good effort though! ;)

Thursday, December 12, 2013

HELBERG CH2 Chrono

By TLex Introducing the CH2 from H2O Watches’ HELBERG label. The CH2 is a sports chronograph watch with a good size to it and some nice features.



Powered by a Swiss made Valjoux 7750 automatic chronograph caliber with a day / date feature, the CH2’s case is constructed from brushed finished 316L Stainless steel.



The case is fitted with a Sapphire crystal and a unidirectional timing bezel with a black Sapphire crystal inlay and two rows of indications.



Its case measures 47mm in diameter with a lug to lug length of 53mm and a height of 15mm. The overall weight of the CH2 is 165g on its 26mm leather strap.



The CH2 has two dial options: a high gloss black dial with sunburst brushing and a chromed handset or a white full lumed dial with a black handset. The hands and dial markers have been applied with Swiss C1 SuperLumiNova.



It isn't a diver per se because it doesn't possess a screwdown crown or chrono-pushers, but it does have a rather nice screwdown engraved case back and is water-resistant to a respectable 30 ATM or 300 meters. The caseback engraving is of Pegasus, the winged horse.



H2O Watches are offering the CH2 at a special introductory price of 950USD until the 10th of January 2014. Follow the link HERE to order. Also read up on the CH1 and CH6 . . .

Wednesday, December 11, 2013

RubberB for PANERAI Luminor SUBMERSIBLE

By TLex RubberB for your PAM - RubberB have extended their product range to include a new line of RubberB straps for the Panerai Luminor Submersible, specifically the PAM24 & PAM25.



The Vulcanized DUAL-COLORED rubber straps have been precisely calibrated for 44mm Luminor Submersible cases. These straps utilizes what RubberB call "Blocked Integration" engineering, including solid inserts for a flawless, motionless flush mount to your PAM's case.



RubberB straps are Made in Switzerland of pure vulcanized rubber. No coating, blends or bonding have been used. Whatsmore they meet FDA and BVGG specifications, soare non toxic, non-marking and non-allergen. The new VulChromatic® PAM straps come with a 316L Stainless steel tang buckle.



Follow the link HERE for more or the link embedded below to RubberB's range of sratps for Rolex,which includes: the Sea-Dweller, Submariner and DEEPSEA . . .

Monday, December 9, 2013

PANTOR Seahorse REVIEW

BACKGROUND PANTOR Watch Company are new Hong Kong based watch company that aim to offer affordable purpose-built dive watches built to a high enough standard that they should last you a life time! Their debut model is the Seahorse . . .

PRESENTATION The Seahorse came in a black leatherette dual watch travel case with the Pantor Seahorse logo embossed on its top side. Inside the case was the watch along with a black credit card type warranty card.



DIAL The Seahorse has a matt black dial with circular and shield shaped hour markers. A black chapter ring with white minute indications and Arabic numerals in 5 minute increments runs around its perimeter.



It is equipped with a set of polished sword minute and hour hands and a red second hand with a round luminous pointer. The dial and hands are absolutely bang on - dive watch design 101. Perhaps a little boring, but perfect for reading dive-time at a glance, and of the sober type that you won’t easily grow bored of.



CASE The case is constructed from 316L surgical grade Stainless steel with a brushed finish. It features an automatic HEV (helium escape valve) on its left lateral side making it suitable for SAT divers.

One of the nicer design features of the case is its recessed crown guard which extends from 3 o'clock and back down to the bottom of the right lower lug. The Girard-Perregaux Seahawk has a similar (more exaggerated design) design as does the phantom Rolex US MARINE watch.



BEZEL The Seahorse has 120 click type unidirectional rotational divers bezel with a black dive-time scale in 5-min increments. At 12 o’clock there is a large triangular marker with luminous material. The version shown here is solid steel but a black and red aluminum inlay is also available.



The bezel has a good height as well as nicely pronounced teeth allowing for good grip. However it has been slightly over-tightened. Rather than be accused of having a sloppy bezel some watch companies do tend to deliberately over-tighten their bezels.



BACK The screwdown caseback, which is domed with a flat bottom is engraved with the Seahorse logo. Some text with the watch's spec. runs around its outside. Twelve scoops can be seen on its outer edge; they are to accommodate a caseback removal tool.



CROWN The crown is located at 4 o'clock, some say it is more comfortable and is less likely to interfere with a divers movement. I just like the look. The crown is of a generous size with a coin-edged grip. The crown stem is a good and sturdy. Opening and closing was problem free. The face of the crown is signed with a Seahorse motif.



CRYSTAL The Seahorse is fitted with a thick flat Sapphire crystal with a clear anti-reflective coating on its inside.

WR The watch has been pressure tested to 100 ATM, the equivalent of 1000 meters of water-resistance.



LUME The dial markers as well as the hands and the 12hr bezel marker are coated with Swiss C3 SuperLuminova so that you can read the time even in very dark environments. The lume application is fairly generous for a sub 600 dollar diver. I would rate the lume at good.

MOVEMENT The Seahorse, is a mechanical dive watch fitted with the ubiquitous and ever reliable Japanese made Miyota 9015 automatic movement with a 28.800 beat rate and around 40 hours of power reserve.



BRACELET This is another really nice feature of the Seahorse. It is fitted with an unusual mesh link and solid link combination bracelet with a divers clasp with 6 step micro adjustments allowing you to adjust the comfort of the watch while it is on your wrist. The bracelet is attached to the case with pins, but the links are screwed.



BUILD I'm not sure if you are familiar the Essex Watches La Primera, but the Seahorse shares the exact same case as well as a number of its components including; the bezel, crown and bracelet. I own both watches so am certain they come from the same factory. The quality which is excellent is comparable; not rattles and everything nice and tight.



On the WRIST The diameter of the watch is 45mm with a thickness of 16mm. Its weight including full link bracelet is 286g. It’s a bit of bruiser, but aren’t they all. The watch sits up quite high on the wrist. It’s pretty heavy, but one plus is the adjustable clasp which can be easily repositioned if you feel the watch isn’t sit perfectly.



VALUE The Seahorse’s price which includes international shipping by DHL is 599USD. It’s a lot of watch for not a lot of money.

CONSIDER Apart the Essex version that I mentioned, not much compares looks-wise. However there are a number (too many to list) of big solid steel divers to chose from in the Seahorse’s price range; all should come with 9015 calibers and a WR of 500m – 2000m. Check out brands like Benarus, Helberg or Prometheus.


© OceanicTime

OVERAL / 5
The only real objection that Pantor have to overcome is them being such a new and unknown entity. Their website does the watch little justice; it is basic at best and could certainly do with a touch of finesse. However the price and product speaks itself.

The Seahorse is a solid and sober tool diver. Its crown guard design and combination solid and mesh-link bracelet give it a unique look. The Essex Watch Company has been deceased for a few years now. I’ve yet to see one for sale on the secondary market, so if you were ever put off buying one because of its high price, the Seahorse at a 3rd of the cost is a no brainer.

http://www.pantorwatches.com/