IWC Aquatimer CHRONOGRAPH Edition GALAPAGOS Islands

By TLex This is the new IWC Aquatimer Chronograph Edition ‘Galapagos Islands’ Ref. IW379502, which is powered by an IWC-manufactured 89365 caliber.



No, that’s it isn’t a DLC coating. This time round IWC have gone for a slick black rubber cladding for the Galapagos Edition, and doesn’t it look hot. It should protect the watch from a few hard knocks!



The 300 meter water-resistant, Aquatimer Chronograph Edition comes with identical 'SafeDive' bezel technology as other models.



This system offers the best of both worlds; a 60-click internal bezel with a chunky extremal bezel, the design of which was inspired by the legendary Porsche Design Ocean 2000 from 1982.



I like the clean look, but wonder if some might have feel that it would also benefit from a 12hr pip for quick 'n' easy timing? Its caseback sports an engraving of IWC's the iconic Galapagos iguana motif.



It joins an Aquatimer line up of NINE new models, which include: the Aquatimer Automatic 2000 Ref. IW358002 and the Aquatimer Chrono Edition Expedition Charles Darwin Ref. IW379503.

IWC Aquatimer AUTOMATIC 2000

By TLex Introducing the new IWC Aquatimer Automatic 2000 Ref. IW358002, which forms part of IWC's 2014 Aquatimer family of NINE new models! This is IWC's fist comprehensive re-launch since 2009. Although altered, the Aquatimer DNA is still recognizable.

IWC have not only elevated the family's pedigree with Manufatcure movements, but have given much thought to the new design which elegantly blends the DNA of a couple of legendary dive watches from the past!



The dial clearly recalls the first Aquatimer of 1967, but the overall aesthetic whilst elegant has a new chunkiness to it making it (for me) the most desirable Aquatimer to date. The bezel with its recessed grip was inspired by the legendary Porsche Design, Ocean 2000.



The 2014 Aquatimer 2000 also makes a welcomed return to Titanium with its 2000 meter / 200 bar water-resistant case, also reminiscent of the iconic Ocean 2000, created by Ferdinand A. Porsche in 1982.



The most obvious technical change comes from the new Aquatimer generation's innovative external/internal rotating divers bezel with its IWC 'SafeDive' system combing the benefits of a 60-click internal bezel safeguarding the mechanism from dirt and seawater with the ergonomics of an external rotational bezel that can be easily manipulated with a divers gloves.



The new Aquatimer 2000 also features a rugged IWC-manufactured 80110 caliber with Pellaton winding system; first developed in the late 1940s and early 1950s by IWC's technical director (at the time), Albert Pellaton. It differs from other rotor designs as it is mounted on a sprung plate, which forms a kind of shock resistance making it ideal for a divers model.



The is the most comprehensive Aquatimer collection to date. It includes NINE new models: 

> Aquatimer Perpetual Calendar Digital Date-Month Ref. IW379401

> Aquatimer Deep Three in titanium Ref. IW355701

> Aquatimer Automatic 2000 Ref. IW358002

> Aquatimer Chrono Edition 50 Yrs Science for Galapagos Ref. IW379504

> Aquatimer Chrono Edition Galapagos Islands Ref. IW379502

> Aquatimer Chrono Edition Expedition Charles Darwin Ref. IW379503

> Aquatimer Chrono Edition Expedition Jacques-Yves Cousteau Ref. IW376805 

> Aquatimer Chrono steel Refs. IW376801/IW376802/IW376803/IW376804 

> Aquatimer Automatic steel Refs. IW329001/IW329002/IW329003/IW329004

IWC Aquatimer CHRONGRAPH Edition EXPEDITION Charles DARWIN

By TLex This beauty is the Aquatimer Chronograph Edition ‘Expedition Charles Darwin’ Ref. IW379503, which for the first time ever, sees IWC Schaffhausen making use of bronze for one of their watch cases.



Bronze has experienced an exceptional growth in popularity among smaller boutique brands, but apart from Richmont Group sibling, Panerai and the former Anonimo, bronze has remained a niche case material.



The Aquatimer Chronograph Edition ‘Expedition Charles Darwin’ is equipped with the IWC manufactured 89365 caliber.



Its case, which has a water-resistance of 300 meters, is fitted with IWC’s 'SafeDive' system combination internal/external bezels.



I know this is only a limited edition piece, but it’s exciting to see some big Swiss brands using bronze. ;)



It joins an Aquatimer line up of up to NINE new models, which include the Aquatimer Automatic 2000 Ref. IW358002 and the Aquatimer Chrono Edition Galapagos Islands Ref. IW379502.

CARTIER Calibre de Cartier DIVER

By TLex Here's a preview of the new Calibre de Cartier Diver from Cartier, due for its official release at SIHH 2014. Although the watch has Cartier's unmistakable character it takes itself pretty seriously as a diver, and so complies with ISO 6425 for a divers watch.



Divers features include: a DLC coated 120-click type unidirectional rotational divers bezel with a luminous dive-time scale, a faceted screwdown crown set with Cartier's signature blue spinel and a water-resistant to 300 meters or 1000 feet.



The main watch case, which is in Stainless steel measures 42mm in diameter with a thickness of just 11mm, not bad considering its water-resistance. The case is fitted with a separate crown guard attached as the lugs are with flat head screws.



The dial has been designed for excellent legibility in the dark and as such has been generously applied with Swiss SuperLuminova on its sword hands and Roman numeral hour markers. There's a large date aperture at 3 o'clock and a sub-dial at 6.



The watch is powered by a Cartier in-house automatic 1904-PS MC caliber with 27 jewels and a power reserve of 48 hours.

It comes on either a black rubber divers strap or with a steel bracelet. A rose gold version is also available. Prices start from 5500euro for the steel version with a rubber strap.



It's pleasing to see any Manufacture producing a high-end diver with an in-house caliber. This one ticks all the boxes for divers features, but Cartier don't have any diving heritage so the watch stirs very little emotion in me. My 5500euro could do way better for me than this. good effort though! ;)