By TLex Introducing Bentley and their first nautical model, the Sea Captain. Nestled in the heart of watch-making territory in La Chaux-de-Fonds, Switzerland, Bentley were first established in 1948.
In 1996 the Bentley Luxury Group was formed with an aim to expand their product portfolio beyond wristwatches and to include luxury fashion and lifestyle goods. The company is in the process of launching an exciting new concept store in Shanghai.
IMPORTANT Please don't confuse Bentley with Bentley Motors, the British car manufacture or Breitling for Bentley Watches. They are the same in name alone and are completely unrelated to each other.
The Bentley watch division has had a recent rebirth and is currently refocusing its efforts on developing some exciting new timepieces that not only draw upon influences from their heritage, but that combine traditional watchmaking techniques with the very latest in watchmaking technologies and current industry trends.
The Sea Captain is Bentley's first nautical model, but it is just a precursor of what is to come from the Bentley watch division. As you read this, exciting new mechanical divers models are being developed, some are even already in the prototype phase and I hope to share more on these in the following weeks and months.
Back to the Sea Captain; this is Bentley’s nautical watch: Its 100 meter water-resistant case combines high-tech materials such as Cermat (a metal and ceramic composite material) which has been used for the Sea Captain’s bezel inlay and bracelet center-links.
Its case back is with a striking black ceramic Bentley emblem made up of two pieces. Two dial designs are available, a standard 3 hander with date function and tri-compax layout with 1/10 second counter. The Sea Captain is powered by a highly accurate Swiss quartz Ronda 3540 module.
Further specification includes: a Stainless steel case measuring 43mm x 52mm (length), a two tone high-tech ceramic bezel with dive time indications, a black dial with lumed hour markers and hands, a two tone Stainless steel with black ceramic inserts, a Sapphire crystal with anti-reflective treatment, a 7mm (wide) screwdown crown.
Prices are from 1250USD.
By TLex Here's an interesting diver project started up by Preston Turk, a young entrepreneur studying business at Northeastern University, Boston, Massachusetts. Passionate about watches and mechanical things he created the Boston Watch Co. with its first model the Charles River Diver.
The Charles River Diver uses what he says is a unique sandwich-type 'bolted' construction that enhances water-resistance the deeper it gets. I'm not sure how unique that is, but certainly it is well-known that the greater the pressure on the watch case, the tighter the seals become thus increasing water-resistance, which in this instance is 300 meters. There's a diagram HERE for engineering geeks (I am not one)!
Technical specifications include: a modest 41mm x 14mm 316 Stainless Steel case with a lug to lug of just 20mm, a screwed down crown (signed), a domed Sapphire with anti-reflective coating on its inside, a 120-click type ratcheting bezel with a Sapphire crystal inlay, dive-time scale and luminous pip at 12.
Its dial is black with C3 SuperLumiNova applied markers and hands. A white date aperture is at 4:30 (a shame). Powering the watch a is the popular Miyota 9015 automatic caliber beating at 28,800 vph. The watch comes on 316L Stainless steel Oyster style bracelet with solid links, solid end links, screwed links and a divers extension with divers safety clasp.
I think Preston might be a little older than his actual years in terms of taste; I find the Charles River to be an elegant looking diver. I am sure it will appeal to many of you. Wishing him the best of luck! Follow the link HERE to pre-ordered the Charles River Diver, priced 599USD. OceanicTime has no affiliation with the Boston Watch Co.
By TLex Introducing Aevig, a charming new start up watch brand based in Schiedam in the Netherlands. The name Aevig comes from ancient Norse and means eternal. Their first model, a handsome retro styled diver, the Huldra is named after a Scandinavian water nymph.
Its design, a harmonious blend of modern and vintage elements. A classic cushion case, a domed crystal and a clean, well balanced dial that reinterprets Tudor's snowflake dial whilst cleverly incorporating the company logo into its design. The hands perhaps with a hint of AP's ROO Diver? I particularly like the pairing of midnight blue with beige - just beautiful!
Specifications include: a 42mm x 46mm Stainless steel case, a domed Sapphire crystal, 200 meters of water-resistance, Swiss C3 SuperLuminova (custom tint) and a Japanese made Miyota 9015 automatic claiber. The watch comes with a NATO with a signed buckle plus a 22mm bracelet with solid end links and 'Super Jubilee' 22-18mm, flip lock clasp with a 5 hole micro adjustment.
The Huldra is priced 450USD ex VAT (outside EU), €399 inc VAT (EU). Stay tuned for the prototype unveiling. Follow the link below to find out more about the Huldra and other collections from Aevig . . .
By TLex Introducing the new Sport Divers collection from Wempe Zeitmeister Glashütte i/SA. Four years in the making, the collection joins other models of the Zeitmeister line, produced since 2006 by the family-owned Wempe business - itself established 135yrs ago in Germany's famous watchmaking town of Glashütte.
.jpg)
The divers collection comprises of three models using the classic Zeitmeister case design. These include a chronograph model and two automatics. Whilst the look of the watches could be described as being 'typical' divers style, they do offer some nice features and will likely be of an excellent build quality.
The watches come in 45mm (chrono) 42mm (auto) Stainless steel cases that are fitted with: double AR-coated Sapphire crystals and unidirectional rotational divers bezels with either black or blue ceramic inlays. Their dials are with steel SuperLumiNova applied handsets and markers. The Chrono comes in black, the Auto in a choice of black or blue. They are both water-resistant to 300 meters / pressure-resistant to 30 bar.
Wempe have dispensed with helium-release valves as they correctly state that they are only essential for professional and offshore divers. I guess they wouldn't want to take their Wempe Divers into the SAT chamber with them?! And how about those of us that enjoy such a superfluous detail as an HEV? :(
However the watches do correspond to strict DIN 8306 and ISO 6425 standards for divers watches and have undergone not only water-resistance and temperature tests, but have survived undamaged to:
• 2 hours spent at pressure at a depth of 100m, then 3 hours at a depth of three meters.• Have withstood a pressure increase of 25% above their specified max. WR of 30 bar.• Have shown no traces of corrosion after being submerged in warm saltwater for 24 hours.• Have survived alternating immersions in water at 40° and 5° C and afterwards passing a condensation test.
The watches possess screw-down casebacks that have been engraved with a depiction of the Glashütte Observatory, where all Zeitmeister models undergo strict tests. They come on 22mm five-part, high-quality, integrated, Stainless steel bracelets with a quick-extension so that it can be worn over a wetsuit. The folding clasp is additionally protected by a divers safety catch.
The watches are powered by a Swiss made Sellita SW500 (chrono) / SW300 (auto) with 25 jewels, 28,800 vph and a power reserve of 48 hours (chrono) 42hrs (auto). These have been modified in Glashütte with Wempe's own fine-adjustment mechanism and are officially certified German chronometers according to DIN standard 8319.
Whilst developing the new divers models, Wempe engineers and designers discovered two early divers from the 60s at the Wempe Museum: the Zeitmeister SkinDiver and Swimproof. It's a pity that they weren't quite brave enough to have borrowed some of the vintage watch's design cues - particularly the handset of the Swimproof, which is superb!
MSRP: 4825USD (chrono) 3540USD (auto)
By TLex Introducing PANTOTR Watches, a new start-up from Hong Kong. Their debut divers model, the Seahorse may or may not be familiar to you as it shares the exact same case as well as a number of its components including; the bezel, crown and bracelet as the Essex Watches La Primera.
The La Primera is powered by a Swiss automatic movement and has 'Made in Germany' printed on its dial. Its MSRP is around the 2000+ USD (one the main objections that people had about it). The Pantor Seahorse by contrast is powered by a Japanese made Miyota 9015 automatic caliber. It makes no bones about its Asian origins and can be had for just 599USD.
By TLex Introducing ANCON Watches, inspired by the ANCON AGC-4 Amphibious Force Command Ship. There are two basic models in Ancon's collection. These are the Sea Shadow and the Magnus. Both watches share the same basic case, which is available in either Al Bronze alloy, 316L Stainless steel or steel with a black PVD coating.
The Sea Shadow has crown protectors whereas the Magnus has a vintage mil. styled un-gaurded crown. The watches have been designed to have an Italian Military feel although design cues have been borrowed from Rolex, such as the dial markers and iconic 'Milgauss' lighting bolt second hand and Richard Mille's famous RM 28 sculpted crown guards.
The watches come in three tasteful dial colors; black, dark (reddish) brown or drab / olive green. There is a 2nd Sea Shadow model - the Sea Shadow California with its mixture of Arabic and Roman numeral combined with baton (3,6,9) and single triangle 12hr marker.
Diving features of the watches include: a screw-down crown and caseback, crown protectors (Sea Shadow), a 120 click-type uni-directional rotational divers bezel with engraved elapsed dive time and pronounced coin-edging and a water-resistance to 200meters (660 feet).
The watches are powered by the Japanese made Miyota 8215 automatic movement. It is non-hacking, but considered a real workhorse. Prices range from 899USD for a Al Bronze to 659 for 316L Steel. Please follow the link embedded below for further details and stay tuned for more info. soon.
By TLex Introducing Obris Morgan and their debut divers model, the 'Nevon'. OM, who are a Hong Kong based watch company have four watch series: 'F' Flieger type, 'R' Retro, 'D' Diver type, and 'T' Tactical type.
All of their watches are assembled and tested in-house. Although their watches are 'affordable', they are still subjected to stringent quality control, insuring that each and every automatic movement is reliable and accurate.
The Nevon, with its clean, classic vintage good looks makes use of a 'Flieger' type case, only stretched to a more substantial size. It has been constructed from 316L Stainless steel. Dimensions inc. 43mm diameter, 14mm thickness with a lug to lug width of 49mm and a lug width 22mm.
The case has a water-resistance of 20 ATM / 200 meters. It is fitted with: a 120 click-type uni-directional rotational timing bezel, a Sapphire crystal with anti-reflective coating on its inside and a solid 316L Stainless steel caseback.
The bezel is 'sterile' except for a 12hr luminous marker. The caseback is engraved with the 'OB' logo. Both the screwdown crown and case are available in three finishes: micro bead-blasted, brushed or black PVD.
The watch dial, which is in black, gray or navy is with thickly printed (white) BGW9 SuperLuminova indices. The mirror finished diamond cut skeletonized hour hand, second hand and yellow serpent-head minute hand have been filled with BGW9 SuperLuminova. BGW9 emits a blue light.
The watch is powered by a Japanese made Miyota 8215 automatic calibre with a frequency of 21,600 bph (beats per hour) an accuracy of +/- 10 sec/day.
The movement is non-hacking - meaning when the crown is extended during time changing the second hand continues to sweep. The movement is held in place by a 316L Stainless steel movement holder.
The Nevon come on a 5 links 316L Stainless steel bracelet. It has a total length of 185mm and thickness of 5mm. The total weight of the watch is 240g.
Here's the interesting part - the watches are priced between as little as 249USD and 269USD. There are a total 14 different case finishes, dial and handset configurations! That's a lot of watch for a very modest amount of money. 
I personally have not tried one yet, but must admit I find the look of the watch very appealing! For further details please follow the link embedded in the OM logo below . . .
By TLex Introducing Borealis, a start-up Portuguese watch brand and their debut divers’ model, the 'Francis Drake' named so after the famous 16h Century English sea captain and navigator. The watch owes its classic good to both Rolex and Tudor, but more specifically Tudor from which it is most heavily influenced.
It looks a lot like the lovechild of the Black Bay (dial) and Pelagus (case). Its most prominent feature being the iconic ‘Snow Flake’ handset that Tudor used for their vintage models back in the day. A design that was only recently resurrected for the two said divers models that were released at Basel last year.
The Francis Drake, which is powered by a Chinese made Seagull ST210 automatic movement is bound to find favor with collectors who are on a more modest budget, but is likely to incur the wrath those who revere Tudor, who are right now making steps towards being a great name again and having just recently announced a return the US market! Still the Francis Drake is a good-looking watch, but then again, why wouldn’t it be given its inspiration! There's also a very fine line between homage and rip-off: what do you think?
The Francis Drake has a 316L Stainless steel case the diameter of which measures 42mm with a thickness of 12mm, a lug to lug width of 50mm and a lug size of 22mm. It is fitted with a domed uni-directional rotational divers bezel with red insert (not sure what material its is), a Sapphire crystal with AR-coating on its inside and a screwdown crown and caseback engraved with a ship’s anchor. Water resistance is of 300 meters. The dial is with Swiss Made C3 Superluminova applied hands and markers.
Borealis expect to receive their first stock in May. Its price will be of 349USD + shipping. It comes with a 12 months warranty. Follow the link below for further details . . .
.jpg)
